Sonoma County

Sonoma Bits & Bobs

These are a collection of sketches that are related in their location, the Sonoma Coast.

From Mammoth Rock to Fort Ross to the north and into the Russian River Valley to the former lumber town of Duncans Mills.

Fort Ross

One morning I drove half an hour north from my digs to Fort Ross State Historic Park. Fort Ross is a sketching touchstone for me and I have returned here with my sketchbook many times. This time I chose a different angle sitting on a rock outside the fort looking towards the Russian Church. I had wanted to sketch from a similar perspective on a previous visit, but I was foiled by rainy conditions.

Duncans Mills

I have wanted to sketch the train station and caboose at Duncans Mills for a while but I had not found the right perspective. There were always cars parked in front and around the station so I sat on the end of the caboose with the back of the station in the background. The narrow gauge line was to the right but is name a paved parking lot.

The narrow gauge railroad came to the lumber town of Duncans Mills in the 1870s and rail, both passenger and freight, until train service was discontinued in 1935.

North Pacific Coast Railroad Caboose No. 2. This narrow gauge caboose was built in 1877.

Sonoma Coast SP: Mammoth Rock

From my digs it was a short drive north to Goat Rock State Beach- Sonoma Coast State Park. My hiking/ sketching destination was Mammoth Rock. It was a blustery 30 minute hike to the large Mammoth Rock.

Wintery and windy weather is never an impediment to a good sketching experience. Driving, windy rain is another monster.

I found a perspective and started my sketch.

Image

Sonoma Coastal Sketching

One a recent weekend trip with the lads on the Sonoma Coast I added some coastal impressions to my sketchbooks.

I have sketched the coastal locations of Bodega Bay and Sea Ranch many times.

On the drive up I stopped at the Tides Restaurant in Bodega Bay for lunch (made famous in Hitchcock’s The Birds). I had a table with a view of the bay and the Bodega Head across the waters.

After lunch I walked along the wharf where I saw a group of sea lions resting on a dock. They didn’t seem to be going anywhere anytime soon so I sketched one of them (featured sketch).

The sea lion on the left is begging to be sketched!

After my sketch I drove north on Highway One towards our cabin in the woods just north of the Sonoma/ Mendocino border.

From our base camp in Gualala we headed south back into Sonoma County to visit Sea Ranch.

A Sea Ranch espresso sketch.

While I was at Sea Ranch Lodge, I did a sketch of the lodge buildings. I had stayed here once before.

One of my Sonoma County sketching touchstones is the seaslug-like Sea Ranch Chapel. I have sketched this whimsical building every time I am in the area. Every angle yields a new sketch. This time I sketched the chapel from the side, slightly to the rear. I never seem to tire of sketching this unique structure.

Image

Recreating at The Sea Ranch

While hiking, fishing, biking, boating, birding, and nature loafing are a popular recreation activities for early Sea Ranchers, they also needed a center to swim and play tennis (and currently, pickle ball).

To this end, three recreation centers were designed and built. The three centers are: Moonraker (1965), the Ohlson (1971), and the Del Mar (1996) Recreation Centers. All the centers where designed in the Sea Ranch style: sloping roofs, barn-sided, and harmonizing with the natural landscape.

There was also function to their forms as the constant prevailing northwestern winds were an environmental impediment to recreating. To this end the architects use of berms and wind-breaks were used to shield the cold winds from the wet, bathing-suited Sea Ranchers.

I wanted to sketch them and I started with the first rec center ever built at Sea Ranch: Moonraker.

It was raining rather vigorously so I sketched the exterior from the shelter of my waterproof sketching blind aka my car (featured sketch).

The Moonraker is an innovative design. The changing rooms are a long, henge-like building which shelters Sea Ranchers from the northwestern winds. The pool and tennis courts are sunk into the landscape, providing an oasis from the prevailing Pacific gales.

The men’s changing rooms at Moonraker. The graphics were designed by Barbara Stauffacher Solomon. The work that she did at Moonraker are considered to be the genesis of the Supergraphics movement.

My next experience with a rec center was more immersive. This was at the second rec center built at Sea Ranch: Ohlson Recreation Center.

With my rental I had access to all three rec centers and I wanted to take a dip at my favorite.

Wow, what a face this presents to the wind. To the right are the tennis courts and as at Moonraker, the structure provides a wind break.

This is the Ohlson Recreation Center. I have always appreciated the design of this center since the first time I saw photographs of it, I’ve loved it. It looks like a futuristic barn that has been on the land for centuries.

I checking in, headed to the door marked “M” and converted into bathing attire. On this cold winter’s day, the heated waters of the wallowing end was perfect.

I thought doing the back waddle in the wallowing side of the pool was a perfect way to enjoy the lines, angles, and surfaces of this iconic Sea Ranch structure. Too bad my sketch book was back in the changing room (and not entirely waterproof!).

A little presoak sketch of the fabulous recreational barn that is the Ohlson Recreation Center, completed in 1971.
Image

Sea Ranch and Lawrence Halprin

One of the leading lights of the development of The Sea Ranch on the northern Sonoma County Coast was Lawrence Halrprin (1916-2009).

A ten mile stretch of coast (formally a sheep ranch) was purchased with the intention of building a community that did not fight against its location but became part of it. The placement of houses and the design of the architecture was intended to mimic the shape of the hills, meadows, and tree lines of the location.

Halprin was hired on to develop the master plan for The Sea Ranch. This was a tall task to develop a new cultural utopia, even a blueprint for all future development. This was a chance to create a new architectural language that could be translated to other locations.

I connect with the works of Halprin in many ways.

I love the way the land becomes the centerpiece of The Sea Ranch. I can’t wait to sketch it, again!

I also love to look at the sketches of Halprin. He thought in sketches of pencil, ink, and watercolor. Halprin captured the landscape in his sketches. He spent a lot of time at Sea Ranch and he had a house here.

Halprin’s words live on in the Sea Ranch Lodge.

The Sea Ranch is a touchstone that I return to for inspiration, quiet, and sustenance. I love being here and sketching here.

When my father died I retreated to the Sea Ranch Lodge to have some quiet time and write my comments for his celebration of life ceremony.

For the feature sketch I attempted a mild, if not failed, caricature of Halprin donning a barn-sided suit. In the background is his studio at The Sea Ranch where he worked while he was on his land at The Sea Ranch.

The above sketch of the house next to my Sea Ranch rental demonstrates some of the Sea Ranch principles in design. The sloped roof, facing into the wind provides a wind-break on the lee-side of the structure (to the right). The house is also sided in natural vertical wood, reflecting the barn influences of some of the first structures on the land. There is also the influence of nearby Fort Ross and it’s chapel.

What is not reflected in the Utopian plans of Sea Ranch was the view from my front room. The original design called for open views across a common meadow to the ocean. From my wall of windows I could see a golf links, a road, a line of house and finally, just beyond the houses, the Pacific Ocean.

Like the name implies, Utopias don’t always live up to their founder’s vision.

And there are always more people with more money than sense to come along and screw it up!

Image

Fort Ross, A Sketcher in the Rain

As my north coast journey approached I looked to the weather forecast of the Sonoma Coast, one weather phenomenon dominated: rain.

I wasn’t going to let this dampen my field sketching mojo. I planned to sketch at Fort Ross, no matter the weather. Call me the postal worker of sketching! Corvids don’t mind the rain.

I had everything I needed for wet weather: rain jacket and pants, umbrella, and a dry bag for my journals.

A November 2015 sketch of the Fort Ross Chapel in better sketching conditions.

Fort Ross is one of those coastal sketching touchstones that I have returned to again and again. This was the first time I had visited with 100% humidity.

Now you can’t have watercolor, as the name implies, without water. But a deluge of rain is a bit too much water. And applying ink to damp paper will cause the ink to run or smudge which can become part of the story of the final sketch.

Now this bed just looks icy cold.

Visiting Fort Ross on a cold, rainy, and windy day gave a me a first hand experience of what it must have been like to spend the winter at the fort. It was dark in the houses even in the middle of the day. No electricity, no television, no smartphones, and no emojis. Cabin fever anyone?

The plus side is that I had the fort all to myself!

The Russians added some new species to the scientific record, of course they couldn’t tell the native people something they didn’t already know.

I knew the perspective I wanted to sketch from: along the barricade looking west toward the guard tower. Seems perfectly fine while you’re planning in your cozy abode; far harder to do in the realities of rain and wind.

I had my umbrella to keep the rain off my journal. Well my umbrella was absolutely useless in these fierce coastal gusts. Trying to concentrate on my sketching while attempting to prevent my umbrella from launching into the local watershed was a struggle.

I had to abort the sketch without actually committing pen to paper. It was time to find shelter from the wind and the rain and commit a sketch to my journal.

I chose as my sketching blind, the second story of the Kuskov House. Great view, dry, and less chilly.

Call me a cheater but by hook or by crook, I got my rainy day sketch in under the timbers of the Kuskov House.
Image

NWP Black Point Bridge

An important bridge that kept Northwestern Pacific Railroad connected with the mainline rail network is the Black Point Bridge.

The 50 foot rail bridge at Black Point is a steel swinging truss bridge that turns perpendicular to the rail line to allow boat traffic on the Petaluma River to pass downstream to San Pablo Bay.

In the days of heavier rail traffic, the bridge was aligned with the railroad but now with fewer freight traffic, the bridge is open to allow river traffic to pass.

The Black Point Bridge, which spans the Petaluma River which is the boundary between Marin and Sonoma Counties, was built in 1911 and then rebuilt in 2011.

The Highway 37 bridge over the Petaluma River. The Black Point Bridge is just downstream from here.

Atop the bride is the Operator’s House where the bridge operator lived. He was in charge of opening and closing the bridge in the days when all the freight north to Eureka, had to cross this vital span to take freight to the rail junction at Schellville and beyond to the wider rail system. The bridge is now operated remotely.

On either side of the steel span, a wooden trestle reaches out into the river.

The marina at Port Sonoma has seen better days. The boat slips are now empty and the reeds are slowly taking over.

I parked in the overgrown parking lot, walked past the abandoned marina, and then headed down the river trail to find a good vantage point to sketch the bridge.

I parked my sketching chair near the outlet of the marina, took a sip of joe, and started to sketch (featured sketch).

A sketcher’s view and beautiful weather for a morning sketch.
Image

NWP Depot: Petaluma

One of the nicest Northeastern Pacific rail depots still in existence, is to be found in the Sonoma County city of Petaluma.

This 1914 depot is designed in the Mission Revival style by Southern Pacific Railroad architect, D. J. Patterson. The passenger station originally cost $7,000 to build. The new station replaced the 1871 wooden stations. Patterson also designed the Galveston, Harrisburg, and San Antonio station. He also designed the Willits Station for the Northwestern Pacific, north of Petaluma.

This was a busy station with 14 passenger trains stopping at Petaluma daily. The construction of the Golden Gate Bridge cut into the passenger numbers and the last passenger train departed from this station in 1958.

That was until almost 60 years later in June 29, 2017 that a passenger train stopped In Petaluma.

The spot now housed the Petaluma Visitor’s Center but passenger service still lives in the form of SMART trains that travel from Santa Rosa to the ferry terminal at Larkspur.

A southbound SMART train pulls into the Downtown Petaluma station.
Image

The Sea Ranch

I recently spent a few days at The Sea Ranch on the Sonoma Coast. This is a place to recharge your batteries, write, sketch, hike, and do report cards. The Sea Ranch is about two and a half hours (100 miles) north of San Francisco and runs ten miles south from the Mendocino County border at the Gualala River in a narrow strip in between the rocky-coved coastline and the San Andreas Fault.

It was developed in the 1960’s and it is renowned around the world for its innovative and influential architecture. The original concept was to create buildings that worked with and not against the rugged Sonoma coast landscape. The design and style was influenced from it’s setting and the existing farm buildings on the former sheep ranch. As founding landscape architect Lawerence Halprin expressed it:

I was convinced that Sea Ranch could become a place where nature and human habitation could intersect in a kind of intense symbiosis that would allow people to become part of the ecosystem

I stayed in the iconic Sea Ranch Lodge ( featured sketch) which was among the first four buildings erected on the site to be a place where the community meets, picks up their mail and has a cocktail and a meal. This building is bookended by the iconic stylized rams heads that is Sea Ranch’s logo, designed by Barabara Stauffacher.

Room #2

I stayed in room number 2. The room had the feeling of being in an elegant coastal barn but with an expansive view out to the west of Big Blue and the lines of pelican and cormorant that passed over Bihler Point.

Sea Ranch Chapel

I headed north on Highway One to sketch one of the touchstones of my sketching universe, the Sea Ranch Chapel. I sat on a stone bench in front of the chapel, which was created without a blueprint. I started to sketch, using a Micron “Brown” pen. A visitor wandered out of her way to see what I was doing. She asked knowingly, ‘Doing a sketch?” Then she looked toward the uneven, shingled lines of this odd aquatic sea slug and offered, “Good luck.” But I thought, finally I get to sketch a building, without using a single straight line.

My father once paid me a compliment as he looked over the architectural sketches in one of my journals. He said, “You draw really good straight lines.” This coming from my father who was an engineer and always thought in straight lines. This has always been the best compliment I have every had about my sketching.

So I went into the chapel  and said a few words to close and holy golden light, a message to my departed dad.