In this post are a few miscellaneous sketches from my five days in the Old Pueblo. Kind of like the random aircraft at the Pima Air & Space Museum that don’t fit neatly into the category of fighter, bomber, cargo, or reconnaissance aircraft.
The first sketch was a self portrait from the front veranda facing out to Scott Street. This was a great place to sit in the late afternoon to read, write, sketch, and people watch. On one afternoon a rain storm passed through and it was a great vantage point to hear the sounds of rain drumming on drainpipes.
Another Tucson site I wanted to add to my sketchbook was the Diamondback Bridge, the pedestrian entryway to downtown.
The fenced bridge is designed to look like a long diamondback rattlesnake with a head towards the downtown end and a rattle on the other end. I sketched the rattle.
This sketch seemed to want some paint splatter.
What do you do when you arrive early to the airport for your return flight home and you find out that your flight has been delayed by and hour and a half? Sketch of course!
I often sketch looking directly head on to planes at the gate. I don’t often get a change to sketch a side view.
This is a United Express jet, an Embraer 175, a common regional aircraft built by the Brazilian manufacturer Embraer. I could certainly understand why such a regional jet was built in Brazil, because you really can’t get around South America’s largest country without flying.
When I arrived at the Rose Canyon turn off at a quarter to eight, the entrance was barred.
Turns out that the campgrounds and picnic areas would not be open for another 15 days.
I parked at a lot to the right of the entrance and there was only one car in the lot. Could they be birders of anglers?
One huge draw of driving up to 7,000 feet above sea level is that it is much cooler than in Tucson. The temps were in the high 50s as I walked down the road towards Rose Canyon Lake.
I had two key species I was listening and looking for: olive warbler and greater pewee. I had birded southern Arizona on four occasions but somehow I hadn’t seen these high elevation conifer-loving species. Now is the time to go to a good hotspot at Mount Lemmon, which is the road I was now on in Rose Canyon.
The first species encountered was one I hadn’t seen in a while: yellow-eyed junco. The Devil’s junco.
As I continued down the road past empty campsites and picnic areas, I first heard the greater pewee singing its “Jose Maria” call. Lifer!
I continued on toward the lake looking and listening for the olive. Even this early spring, they didn’t seem to be singing, while many others were in full voice.
At the lake I found the occupants of the car I parked next two: two anglers. But not much on the lake except a few mallards.
As I walked up the hill towards the lake parking lot, now completely empty, I spotted a dark raptor soaring above the trees.
I put bins on the bird and thought it was either a zone-tailed or a common black hawk. I raised my camera up and got off four shots before the hawk moved over the ridge. I would sort out identification later when I got a better look at the photos.
A common black hawk.
I retraced my route back towards my car, scanning the ponderosa pines for a black-masked bird with a tawny orange head.
Before long I found a male foraging in a pine to my left. Olive warbler, lifer at last!
He flew across the road and was soon joined by a female and they foraged together and then moved higher up the pine and out of sight.
I later saw another female on the ground gathering nesting materials. Spring is here in the mountains!
Once back at the car park I headed up towards the summit and Summerhaven. I pulled off to the small ski resort of Ski Valley.
The resort, the most southern ski resort in the United States, had three lifts and a small building capped with a bell tower which I guessed is the ski school.
Off to my right and above the pines circled a large, dark raptor. Was this the same bird I had seen at Rose Canyon? After reviewing photos I identified the bird as a common black hawk.
On my return down the mountain I stopped at Windy Point to sketch the otherworldly rocks and to take in the views greater Tucson. It’s amazing to think that I only had to travel about an hour from Tucson to be in a completely different world.
In this post I included a few of my favorite aircraft. This time they were not the giants such as the Boeing 747 or the B-52.
They were the McDonnell-Douglas F-4 Phantom II and the Lockheed P-3 Orion.
The F-4 is only aircraft flown by both the Navy’s Blue Angels and the Air Force’s Thunderbirds. One of the museum’s F-4s is painted in the Thunderbird red, white, and blue livery and is No. 7.
This P-3 looks like it just came from the Boneyard and is now in the museum’s maintenance area waiting restoration work.
I have sketched and written about the Hunter: P-3 Orion. This was the airplane of my youth and I knew it by site and sound.
I was glad that the museum had a few of these wonderful aircrafts on display.
I found a bit of shade a sketch two versions of the Orion: the EP-3E Aries II and the P-3 awaiting restoration. I rendered the planes in a continuous-line sketch (featured sketch).
While in Tucson, I wanted to visit and sketch one of the best and biggest air museums in the west if not the entire United States, the Pima Air & Space Museum. This place is epic!
Now where to start?
What is impressive about the museum is the sheer size of the collection, not just in the number of aircraft in their collection (over 400) but the massive size of the planes including three B-52s, two B-29s, and two 747s. You need a lot of real estate to display these massive machines and they have it.
Two of the three B-52s in the museum’s collection.
What I also liked about the size and scale of the museum, unlike others I have visited, is that you actually have space to stand back and take in the whole aircraft and walk around them for a 360 degree view and they weren’t crowded in with tons of other aircraft, making sketching or plane viewing, rather difficult.
Getting a 360 view of the massive end of a Boeing B-52 (and they have three).
Some of the aircraft is displayed in hangers but the majority of the collection is outside under the desert sun.
The business end of an A-10 Warthog. This maybe one of the only museums where you can see this static plane, step outside and see one taking off at the adjacent Air Force Base.
Sketching outside was going to be a challenge in the desert sun for my coastal constitution and fair skin. I employed 45 SPF sunscreen, long sleeves, a buff, and a wide brimmed hat.
While sketching a line of some of the museum’s largest aircraft, two 747s, a DC-10, and a triple 7, I looked for shade in my sketching positions.
Luckily a Boeing 747 provides quite a bit of shade to sketch under. I rendered the scene with a continuous-line sketch (featured sketch).
In this post I included sketches of some of the museum’s largest planes, they all happen to be made by Boeing: the B-29 Superfortress, the B-52 Stratofortress and the 747, the world’s first jumbo jet.
While the B-52s and the 747s were outside, the heavy World War Two bomber, the Boeing B-29 Superfortress was indoors.
The Boeing B-29 Superfortress is known for the destruction it wreaked on Japan during WW II with the dropping of incendiary bombs on Japan’s wooden cities and also dropping the two atomic bombs on Hiroshima and Nagasaki that virtually ending the war in the Pacific Theater.
High on my Tucson sketch list was the Airplane Boneyard east of downtown.
From the Pima Air & Space Museum’s website I learned that tours of the Boneyard had been discontinued since Covid (it is an active military base) and the only way to view the aircraft was from perimeter roads.
The Boneyard at Tucson is part of Davis–Monthan Air Force Base and contains over 4,400 aircraft on 2,600 acres. They use these retired aircraft for parts and also restore some back to service. This is the perfect spot for aircraft in the desert climate because the dry atmosphere does not induce rust or corrosion.
Using Google Maps I thought East Escalante Road would be a good place to start. I chose this road for two reasons: it ran parallel to the perimeter fence and it was close to one of my favorite airplanes: the Lockheed P-3 Orion.
This was the four turbo prop submarine hunter that was stationed at Moffat Field in my hometown of Sunnyvale, California. The plane that passed my bedroom window on final approach to the Naval Base. I can still hear the mighty roar of the turbo prop engines. The soundtrack of my childhood.
Apparently E. Escalante is one of those long Tucson streets and Google Maps led me not too close to the Boneyard. I closed Google Maps and found the location with instinct, cunning, and eyes.
After a short search I found the street and the location. I pulled off on a side street near a backyard with two very protective dogs in the yard. Now it was time to find a good sketching location.
P-3s use the same engines as the C-130 but the props of the Orion are rounded.
Escalante was a busy street even at 7:45 in the morning. I crossed the road like a roadrunner and walked along a parallel bike path to a picnic shelter.
The bike path and fence with more P-3s than I have ever seen in one place.
I sat on a table and started my sketch. There was a lot going on in front of me! I chose to not include the chain link perimeter fence in front of me.
In the foreground are rows and rows of P-3s all parked with military precision with purple peaks in the background. This is the most P-3s I’ve ever seen in one location and I wondered if any of them were stationed at Moffett. The answer: very probable.
Rows and rows of Lockheed’s C-130s.
I returned to a different part of the Boneyard a few days later on my way to Saguaro National Park. This time the road that paralleled the Boneyard was East Irvington Road.
There are a lot of P-3s here. The plane closest is actually an EP-3 Aries II.
At this location, the aircraft were parked parallel to the fence and the tails receded into the distance towards the mountains in the horizon. This would be good for a sketch. The two types of aircraft near the fence were the Lockheed C-130 and P-3. Both of these turboprop planes had long years of service both in the United States and around the world. These planes are still flown today.
Now some of these planes are just expensive pigeon perches.
For this sketch I sketched across the gutter with a continuous-line sketch. And on this spread I did sketch in the fence.
High on my sketch list is a landform 30 miles east on Highway 40 from Flagstaff, Arizona. This is, as writer Bill Bryson says, “the most famous impact site on Earth and a popular tourist attraction”. It is known simply as Meteor Crater.
I left my digs in West Sedona at a quarter to eight for the 90 minute journey to the big depression in the middle of nowhere.
As I headed up Highway 17, from Sedona at 4,350 feet to Flagstaff, at 7,000 feet, the temperature dropped. As I neared Flagstaff the temps hovered just above freezing. This journey was the reason I packed my puffy jacket, gloves, and beanie. It was cold up here with plenty of snow and ice on the ground.
I grazed the outskirts of Flagstaff and then turned east on Highway 40 toward Winslow and New Mexico. Within half an hour I turned south, towards the Meteor Crater.
As you approach the crater, the road is lined with witty signs. Others say, “Four Miles Until Impact”.
Once at the crater I had to find the crater through a maze of admissions, stairs, a gift shop, two theaters, a museum, more stairs, and a corridor or two. But finally I found the observation deck on the rim of the 4,000 foot in diameter crater. It was breathtaking (or maybe just out of breath with all the exertion finding the crater).
What caused this massive 560 foot deep crater? Well scientists surmise that about 50,000 years ago in the Pleistocene Epoch, the Earth was struck by a meteor traveling at about 26,000 miles an hour! The iron-nickel meteorite was about 150 feet wide and weighed several thousand tons. The impact generated a force greater than 20 million tons of TNT. That’s 20,000 kilotons. As a comparison, the atomic bomb dropped on Hiroshima was about 15 kilotons of TNT. Most of the meteorite vaporized during the impact, but a few pieces of the meteor have been recovered.
It’s not everyday that you get to touch a meteor!
At the museum it is noted on the crater’s vastness and size: “The Crater is large enough for 20 football games to be played simultaneously on its floor, while more than 2 million people could watch from the side slopes.” If there were sporting events occurring in the crater, you would need some good optics to see what was happening down below. And I found some:
Reading about the crater in Bill Bryson’s excellent book, “A Short History of Nearly Everything” was the impetus for my Spring Break Arizona trip and it rekindled my interest in Astronomy.
A pen brush sketch from the upper observation deck.
The Trasher Spot in Arizona is famous in the birding world as the location to see four thrashers: sage, crissal, Bendire’s, and Le Conte’s. It is also known as one of the best spots in it’s range to see the notoriously sulky and ghost-like Le Conte’s thrasher.
I had seen the Le Conte’s thrasher, after many, many attempts, just west of the dump in Borrego Springs, California in January of 2019 so this illusive thrasher was not my target bird for this visit, but the Bendire’s thrasher was.
Spring flowers and a tire at the Trasher Spot.
I wandered around the spot and I found no thrasher. A few horned larks and western meadowlarks lifted away as a red-tail circled above. In the taller trees I spotted a bird perched up but as I got a better look it was just a mockingbird. Well that was looking and sounding like a good omen.
Off to my left a bird was perched up on some sagebrush. Could this be the Bendire’s? I needed to get closer to get a positive identification. As I got closer, the bird flew farther away to another sagebrush perch. I circled round to get the bird in some better light. This was a thrasher alright, not a Bendire’s but a sage thrasher.
After searching for just over an hour and only seeing one thrasher species, the sage thrasher, I decided to pack it in for the day and return again in the morning, my last full day in Phoenix, to add Bendire’s to my life list and I hoped it was not going to be as hard and laborious as the Le Conte’s thrasher.
I headed west on West Salome Highway, making my way back to Highway 10. When I slowed near the intersection of the impossibly named 339th Avenue, I saw a mimid-type bird perched on the roadside announcing the intersection of 339th Avenue.
I immediately pulled over and cursed myself for packing my bins and camera in the trunk. As I stepped out of the car, the bird dropped down and disappeared from sight before I could identify it. I was not going to give up now!
Now I was armed with the instruments of a birder. The mystery mimid flew across the highway and landed in a tree of sticks. The hunt was on!
I managed to scuttle across the highway without becoming a grill ornament on a pick up truck (the state vehicle of Arizona) and bushwhacked ( they were short bushes) and made my siege on the tree-bush.
All I needed was a brief glimpse. Give me the shorter beak with a pale base, the yellow eye, or the arrow shaped markings on the breast. Then I would close out all the North American thrashers! Oh and a photo would be nice.
In typical thrasher fashion the bird put a load of branches between itself and myself. But I did get enough pieces of the puzzle that added up to Bendire’s Thrasher. Lifer and the final thrasher on my list! We played a game of hide and seek as I tried to get a photo, the Bendire’s not giving a fig about me and my selfish wants.
This Bendire’s looked a bit odd. It was something about it’s bill. When I put bins on the bird, I noticed it was carrying a butterfly. Was this a snack or a gift?
The Lowell Observatory is legendary in the history of astronomy.
It was at this Flagstaff, Arizona observatory that a high school graduate and amateur astronomer discovered Planet X, later named Pluto, the ninth planet in our solar system.
This sign at the entrance to the visitors center holds true for looking to the heavens but it certainty is the mantra for sketching.
The former farmer and the first American to discover a planet was named Clyde Tombaugh. He built his own telescopes from discarded farming machinery parts and made astronomical drawings that he sent off to the Lowell Observatory. They were so impressed with Tombaugh’s drawings that they hired him as an observer in the search for Planet X.
Tombaugh used the 13-inch astrograph to take photographs of the night sky. An astrograph is a telescope that has a photographic plate holder where astronomers can take photographs with exposures than can last up to an hour.
The 13-inch astrograph that Tombaugh used to discover Planet X, later renamed Pluto. The boxing glove was added by a later astronomer after hitting his head on the counterweight.
The method Tombaugh used To discover the ninth planet was as follows: Tombaugh would aim the astrograph to a section of the night’s sky and make a one hour exposure onto a glass plate. Five or six days later he would make the same exposure in the same location and then he would compare the two developed plates. The stars, which are far beyond our solar system, did not move but Tombaugh found a small spec that moved from left to right. This was a planet orbiting our sun. Tombaugh had discovered Planet X!
Tombaugh later went back to school to earn his masters (Can you imagine his professor asking the class on the first day: “What is your experience with astronomy?” Tombaugh replies, “I discovered Pluto.”) He went on to a long career in astronomy and he died in 1997. He was lucky not to live long enough to see his discovery demoted from a planet to a dwarf planet; Which happened almost ten years after his dead.
In this observatory, Tombaugh discovered the planet Pluto. Err, I mean the dwarf planet Pluto.
Another historic telescope at Lowell Observatory is the 24-inch Clack Refractor. This is the telescope that Percival Lowell used to explore the planet Mars as well as starting the search for Planet X.
It was with this telescope that Lowell made many of his Mauritian observations that raised some eyebrows in the scientific community. Lowell observed “Mauritian Canals” on the surface and he surmised that these were signs of intelligent life. Lowell thought that the canals were used to carry water from the poles to the desert like equator.
While these speculative observations didn’t help Lowell or the Observatory’s reputation, his theories provided fodder for early Science Fiction writers.
For my one week spring break I decided to keep it close and sketch, bird, and nature loaf in the Grand Canyon State (without visiting the Grand Canyon). And also see one of the best meteor crater strikes on planet earth along with the observatory where Pluto was discovered.
The Southwest is a landscape of red-rust rocks, olive greens, and blue skies. I would need a slightly different palette to capture the landscapes around Sedona, a different palette than I use in coastal California.
I added some more paints such as quinacridone burnt orange by Daniel Smith to add to the desert colors I would be using in attempting to render the Arizona landscapes before me.
The beginning of any adventure is creating a map. I may or may not stick to the route but it provides the framework for miracles and wonder (featured sketch).
From my digs in Sedona I would be heading north to the colder climes of Flagstaff and then 37 miles east to the Meteor Crater near Winslow. I want to field sketch the crater from its rim. It will be cold, with a high of 45 so I am bringing my October Yellowstone jacket beanie, and gloves.
Once I get the meteor crater in my sketchbook I will head back to Flagstaff to the Lowell Observatory, my sketching target: the Pluto Discovery Dome where the search for Planet X ended as Clyde Tombaugh discovered Pluto on February 18, 1930.
I return to Phoenix and chose to stay west of downtown. The location is near Skyharbor but also about 40 minutes to the famous “Thrasher Spot”. This legendary birding destination is the best place to see the elusive Le Conte’s thrasher (and three other thrasher species). Good thing I have this desert wraith on my life list already. This nemesis bird took a lot of time and legwork to see, but I finally saw a Le Conte’s on January 4, 2019 just west of the landfill at Borrego Springs. But I do not have Bendire’s thrasher and if I see this bird, I will close out all North American thrashers!
Red rocks are a big drawn for visitors to Sedona, Arizona. These are not small rocks but mammoths named Bell, Cathedral, Coffeepot, Chimney, Steamboat, and Castle. To name a few.
I wanted to sketch a few of these Sedona features with my desert watercolor palette attempting to capture the rufous rocks. The red is caused by dissolved iron that has drained through sandstone layers for millions of years.
High on my list was to sketch the Chapel of the Holy Cross, a Sedona must see since 1956. The chapel was build to fit into the red rocks like a jigsaw puzzle piece (featured sketch).
The Chapel of the Holy Cross in Sedona. I sketched Bell Rock from the Chapel of the Holy Cross because all the Bell Rock parking lots were full by 8 AM.
In the afternoon I visited Red Rock State Park and had good light to sketch the iconic Arizona landmark: Cathedral Rock.
Red Rock State Park with Cathedral Rock in the background. I sketch the iconic Cathedral Rock from the observation deck at Red Rock State Park. At the base of Coffeepot Rock was a western movie set. Quite a few movies where filmed in and around Sedona. Now at the base is a gated community called “The Coffeepot Rock Cottages”. Cottages indeed!